Spirits Explained

The Artistry of Bourbon

Greg Horton, ReserveBar Spirits Contributor

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Bourbon is perhaps the most American of spirits, given that its history is entwined with the nation’s in nearly every conceivable way – affected by the Revolutionary War, immigration, taxation, explosive growth, hard-to-predict obstacles, geography, agriculture, Prohibition and repeal, and legislative definitions. Yes, it draws its name from the French Bourbon dynasty (no one seems to know why, but the answer may be in the charred oak barrels), but it was born in the United States, grew up here, and is now one of the strongest categories every year in spirits sales.

WHAT IS BOURBON WHISKEY?

The bottom line for bourbon is that it must begin with a mash bill (the grains used to make the whiskey) that is at least 51 percent corn, which explains why this particular spirit ranges from slightly sweet to sweet, especially when compared to its cousin rye. The whiskey must also be aged in charred, new oak barrels. This tradition dates back to the early 19th century, when French merchants settled in the Ohio and Mississippi River Valleys, bringing with them the charred-barrel practices of the Cognac region of France. Finally, the whiskey must be distilled to no higher than 160 proof, barreled no higher than 125 proof, and bottled no lower than 80 proof.

Does it have to come from Bourbon County, Kentucky, to be “real” bourbon? No. The U.S. is not France, where regionality is dictated by law, such that Burgundy must come from Burgundy and Champagne from Champagne. In the U.S., the primary stipulation is related to states for whiskey, so Kentucky Bourbon has to come from Kentucky, but “bourbon” can be made anywhere in the U.S. so long as it follows the mash bill, barrel aging, and ABV guidelines.

The more recent buyer interest in the spirit has led to a boom in bourbon production, with delicious versions coming from Colorado (Breckenridge), Ohio (Noble Oak), Tennessee (Heaven’s Door), Texas (Balcones and Blackland), and Wyoming (Wyoming Whiskey). One of the largest producers of whiskey – not just bourbon – in the U.S. is MGP in Indiana. Recently, they created the Ross and Squib name to distinguish their products not sold to third parties, including George Remus Bourbon, and they now have an operation in Kentucky, as well.

As for the name, it’s commonly agreed that the first use of “bourbon” to describe this specific type of whiskey happened in Kentucky’s Western Citizen newspaper in 1821. Why they used it or where the inspiration came from is lost to history. Americans had been producing whiskey since at least the Revolutionary War, when imports of rum and other favorites fell off during the conflict. Dr. James Crow introduced and standardized the sour mash process in 1835, and in 1897, the U.S. government created “bottled in bond” standards to cut down on dangerous additives and mislabeling. The last major decision – other than Prohibition and repeal – that affected what we now know as bourbon was President William Howard Taft’s move in 1909 to make terms like bourbon and rye related to the grains in the mash.

THE ARTISTRY OF MAKING BOURBON

Distillers are free to play with various mash bills as long as they follow the basic guideline of 51 percent corn. The two most common grains in the mash after corn are rye and malted barley. Some distillers, though, add wheat to the bill, often as a four-grain alternative but sometimes as a substitute for rye, a formula that creates a lighter, sweeter whiskey without the spice of rye. The wheated bourbon category includes notable rockstar brands like Maker’s Mark, Old Fitzgerald, and Weller, as well as emerging brands like Wyoming Whiskey and Garrison Brothers. So-called high rye bourbons – where the second grain is overwhelmingly rye – include Redemption, Basil Hayden’s, and Four Roses.

This is where the distiller can really make a mark on the bourbon’s character and flavor profile. By massaging the mash bill – rye for spice, wheat for bready sweetness, and malted barley for toast and nuttiness – the distiller can craft a preferred flavor profile that can appeal to a wide range of whiskey lovers. Increase the corn, and the whiskey gets noticeably sweeter. Rye and malted barley in larger proportions create a dryer bourbon, in addition to their flavor components. Most mash bills are made available to the public, which makes it easier to drink according to your own preferences by means of simple web searches.

Paying closer attention beyond simply the mash bill and even going deeper into the ingredients can also guide you away from flavor components you don’t typically enjoy. What kind of wheat is being used? What species of rye? Each unique grain brings with it different aromatic and flavor components, such that wheat isn’t just wheat. The grains provide a road map of sorts, but going full nerd by diving into the mash bill can help you find your sweet spot, which makes it easier to go adventuring with bourbons from all over the country.

The craftsmanship and care that goes into this uniquely American spirit shows up in every taste, and a well-crafted bourbon is meant to be sipped and savored. We invite you to begin your exploration by selecting some delicious bourbons from our outstanding collection here.